Design Of Enclosure And Enclosure Shoes -- Design Requirements
Although there are many kinds of shoe covers, the variety is due to the different processing methods. Therefore, the key to design the shoe is to design the split position between the shoe and the cover.
With different positions and different processing capacity, different kinds of shoe covers will be developed with different processing techniques.
In addition to the requirement of the location of the design of the enclosure, there are corresponding requirements for the shape of the enclosure, the difference between the inside and outside, and the technological seesaw between the covers.
1. selection of shoe last
The cover is a kind of color change of shoes, and there is no specific last type requirement.
If tongue cover shoe is designed, the tongue type shoe last should be chosen. If the design of the ear type cover shoe and the opening cover shoe is designed, the prime head shoe should be selected.
Nevertheless, the design of the cover shoe has better effect when the last wall is lined.
2. the position of the cover.
In the front of the shoe last, there is a vertical erect wall. The last wall is surrounded by the back of the last.
Some of the last wall lines of the shoe last is not very obvious, but with the pencil rough drawing along the approximate position of the front of the last, the boundary of the cover will be seen.
However, the boundary line on the last surface belongs to the body moulding line of the shoe last, and it is not the dividing line of the cover part, but is the base line for designing the cover shoe.
As the tension force is pushed forward and down to help the feet, the design of the boundary parts of the cover can be contracted to 2 to 3mm on the basis of the molding line of the enclosure, depending on the elongation of the material.
The upper part of the upper can reach the molding line position after it is stretched. It can be slightly smaller, but it can not be over the boundary.
The shoe cover of the color picture I-5 is relatively short, but it is not ugly. The cover line is obviously behind the last wall line. This is a special design.
If the boundary of the cover of the finished shoe exceeds the shoe last molding line, it will appear a phenomenon of falling down, showing no spirit or strength, commonly known as "falling Kang".
Once the Kang appears, the design will fail.
A dividing line that controls the enclosure, usually marked as a point.
On the last surface, the point is the front point of the last wall. When applied, it is necessary to make the point back 2 ~ 3mm to set the J'point, and the J' point is the design point of the front end of the shoe cover.
There is a front end of a shallow enclosure shoe last, sometimes only about lOmm, which is another shoe last, which will be specially described in the rear.
3. shape of shoe cover
The shoe cover part and the round bar part are two pieces formed after the whole block is cut off, and the contour of the shoe part is more important than that of the shoe cover according to the contour of the shoe cover.
In particular, some stilts tend to deal with distortion on the shoe covers, so we should emphasize the accuracy and good appearance of the shoe covers.
The shape of the shoe cover is actually the "compression version" of the last shape, with the pointed nose shoe with the pointed nose, the round head with the round head shoe cover, the square head last with the square head shoe cover, etc.
So, to what extent?
How far is the circle?
To what extent?
Only with the shape of the shoe last, only the shape of the shoe cover is in harmony with the shape of the last.
The design of the shoe cover is formed through the J'point, and the contour along the periphery of the last edge is contracted.
This shrinkage is mainly applicable to the front part of the shoe cover. After the last part of the shoe, it should be connected with the relevant design elements such as the tongue, shoe ears and openings of the back.
The difference between 4. miles away
Why do we make a difference?
When designing the front cusp points 01 and 02 for the outer ear shoes, it has been explained that the difference between the inside and outside of the last shoe shape is caused by the difference.
Apart from the difference between inside and outside, there is also a problem of reference.
When designing the inner ear shoes, the width of the sides of the shoes is based on the design center line of the shoes ears, and the middle line is designed on the back line, and the shoes ears on both sides must be the same, which is correct.
When you design outer ear shoes, you can not see the midline. What you see is the edge of the last body on both sides. If you see that the front point of the shoe ears is approximately equal to the edge of the last body, it is considered correct, if the deviation is large, it is skew.
In the same way, the shape on both sides of the front part of the last pair is very different. When the distance between the two sides of the shoe cover is approximately equal to the distance between the two sides of the last body, there will be a correct feeling: if the shoe cover pattern is not divided into two parts, there will be a "drop" feeling on the last surface.
Why fall?
Because the Huai - side last body area is smaller, the shoe lid is too close to the edge of the last body, and the feeling is falling off, so we should make the difference between the inside and outside.
That is to say, the width of the model side should be appropriately reduced.
5. craft sew treatment
There are two technology seesaw covers, one is in the middle of the back and the other is between the covers.
After learning the shoemaking technology, it is known that the technology should be used to handle the front tips of the surrounding strips, so that the two wings of the strips can be extended to facilitate the drawing. Otherwise, they will waste a lot of raw materials, and at the same time, it will also facilitate the operation of the gang.
In front of the design of prime shoe, there are no lines around the cover, the back midline is a straight line that has been connected with J points, and the front end points are A.
Point.
If half of the panels are made, the front ends of the front ends should be contracted, and the tips of the shoes must sag. If the AJ'line is connected at this time, it is the middle line of the girth with the technological seesaw.
This method of drawing is relatively simple. If you feel that the process is not enough after you make the template, you can add it to the template. See figure 2-1-1.
As shown in the figure, there are 3 cuts in the bottom of the original template of a, and 80% of the cut is trimmed to the front edge, which has been expressed in shadow.
Figure (b) is the front part that has been pruned, and it will have a technological sedan for the design of the surround parts.
At this point, AJ'is the middle line of the girth.
The technological sedan between the covers is more complicated, but it plays a vital role.
For example, when the bandage is used, the front shoe of the tongue shoe is relatively backward, but it is easy to reach the bent last after stretching. This is due to the linkage principle of the mesh node of the material.
If the front part is separated from the cover and the shoe cover, and without the technological stilts, it will not be easy to lose the last.
Because the stitch of the vehicle helps to destroy the mesh structure of the front part of the front, the extension of the car side line has no extension of the skin material, so it is difficult to stretch.
In the process of obtaining the technological sedan between the covers, the length of the control strip is slightly larger than the length of the shoe cover. When the shoe is inserted, the shoe cover is slightly stretched and then inserted with the surrounding strip, so that the back midline generates a crooked degree of seesaw.
This operation can easily cause the upper to be stretched on the saddle surface.
If it is hard drawn, especially the tensile force of the stretching machine is relatively large, it can also cause the upper to be attached. However, after the shoe is removed, the supporting function of the shoe last is removed, and the material of the leather shoe should be restored to its own nature. After a while, the shrinkage wrinkles will appear.
This is why some shoes will wrinkle when they are placed on the counter.
Through the above analysis, we can see that in addition to selecting last and looking for J points, we should also control the position and shape of the cover, the difference between inside and outside, and craft sedan.
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